What Power Supply Does a Linear Actuator Need? Amps, Watts & Sizing Explained
A linear actuator only asks its power supply for three things: the right voltage, enough current, and a stable DC output. Get any one of them wrong and the actuator runs slow, stalls under load, or does not move at all. This guide shows how to size a supply from the numbers already on your actuator's specification sheet — no guessing, no overspending on a supply ten times bigger than you need.
The Three Numbers That Matter
1. Voltage (V). HyHaven actuators run on 12V or 24V DC. Your supply must match the voltage of your actuator model. A 12V actuator on a 24V supply will be over-driven; a 24V actuator on a 12V supply will run weak or not at all. Check the model you bought — do not assume.
2. Full-load current (A). This is the current the actuator draws when it is working hard, pushing or pulling its rated load. Size everything — supply, switch, controller, fuse — for this number, not the much lower no-load current. A supply rated only for no-load current will sag or shut down the moment the actuator meets resistance.
3. Power (W). Power is simply voltage times current: watts = volts x amps. Power-supply listings often lead with watts, so this conversion lets you compare a "120W supply" against your actuator in seconds.
Full-Load Current and Power, by Model
These are the verified full-load currents for HyHaven actuators. The watt figures are calculated from them (volts x amps):
| Model | 12V full-load current | 12V power | 24V full-load current | 24V power |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| HH-LA-U5 (500N) | 3.0 A | 36 W | 2.8 A | 67.2 W |
| HH-LA-U1 (900N) | 3.0 A | 36 W | 1.8 A | 43.2 W |
| HH-LA-U2 (1500N) | 3.8 A | 45.6 W | 2.0 A | 48 W |
| HH-LA-U3 (6000N) | 8.5 A | 102 W | 3.8 A | 91.2 W |
| HH-LA-U11 (3500N) | 6.0 A | 72 W | 3.0 A | 72 W |
| HH-LA-U6 (7000N) | 16.0 A | 192 W | 9.0 A | 216 W |
| HH-LA-508 (12000N) | 20 A | 240 W | 10.5 A | 252 W |
Two things jump out from the table. First, the jump from a small actuator to a large one is dramatic: a U6 at 12V needs more than five times the current of a U1. Second, the same model draws far less current at 24V than at 12V — which is one of the main practical reasons to choose 24V for larger actuators (see our 12V vs 24V guide).
How to Size a Supply in Four Steps
Step 1: Confirm the voltage. 12V or 24V — match the actuator, not the nearest spare supply on the shelf.
Step 2: Look up the full-load current. Use the table above or the Full Specifications section on your model's product page.
Step 3: Pick a supply rated at or above that current, with headroom. A supply that is only just enough will run hot and may cut out on the start-up surge, when a DC motor briefly draws more than its full-load current. Choose a supply with comfortable headroom above the full-load figure — for example, a U3 at 12V (8.5 A) wants a 12V supply rated comfortably above 8.5 A, not a 9 A supply running at its limit and not a 5 A supply at all.
Step 4: Check that the supply is DC, regulated, and rated for continuous output at that current. Some cheap adapters quote a peak figure rather than a continuous rating. If the listing does not say the current is continuous, treat it with suspicion.
What Kind of Supply?
AC-to-DC power adapter (power brick). The usual choice for indoor, mains-powered projects: plug into a wall outlet, get 12V or 24V DC out. This is what ships in HyHaven's Wired Controller Kit — its 24V version outputs 24V DC at 2.5 A, which covers small actuators (U1, U2) but not larger ones (U3, U5, U11, U6, 508), which draw more than 2.5 A at 24V. For those, use a higher-rated 24V supply instead of the kit's adapter.
Battery. A 12V or 24V battery is a valid DC source for RV, solar, and off-grid projects. The same sizing rule applies, plus one extra: put an inline fuse close to the battery terminal, because a battery can deliver very high fault current. Battery capacity (amp-hours) decides runtime, not whether the actuator moves — that is still decided by voltage and current.
Bench or industrial DC supply. Fine for testing and workshops, as long as the voltage matches and the continuous current rating clears the full-load figure with headroom.
One Supply for Two Actuators?
Only if the supply can deliver both actuators' full-load currents at the same time. Two U1 actuators at 12V need a supply rated above 6.0 A combined (3.0 A each), plus headroom. And remember the mechanical caveat: two actuators rarely run at exactly the same speed, so a shared supply powers both but does not keep them in sync under uneven loads. For a platform that must stay level, read our guide to synchronizing two actuators before wiring them together.
Symptoms of an Undersized Supply
- The actuator moves unloaded but stalls or crawls under load.
- It starts, then the supply clicks off or resets — that is usually overcurrent protection tripping.
- Speed drops noticeably as the load increases, or the actuator hesitates at the start of the stroke.
- The supply itself runs hot.
If you see these, check the supply's continuous current rating against the table first. Nine times out of ten, the actuator is fine and the supply is simply too small.
Common Mistakes
- Sizing for no-load current. Always use full-load current.
- Matching watts but not voltage. A 100 W supply at the wrong voltage is still the wrong supply.
- Trusting a peak rating as a continuous rating. Check the wording on the label.
- Forgetting the controller in the chain. If you use a controller kit, the kit's own adapter or receiver must also handle the current — the supply alone is not the whole circuit.
- No fuse. Fit an inline fuse on the positive lead, rated above the full-load current, so a jammed mechanism blows the fuse instead of cooking the motor or the supply.
FAQ
Can I use a bigger supply than the actuator needs?
Yes. An actuator draws only the current it needs; a larger supply does not force extra current into it. The supply's voltage must still match, and its current rating must be at least the full-load figure. Oversizing the current rating is safe; oversizing the voltage is not.
Can I use a smaller supply and just run the actuator unloaded?
Not reliably. Even unloaded, start-up surge can trip an undersized supply, and the first real load will stall the actuator. Size for full load from the start.
Does a 24V actuator need a bigger supply than a 12V one?
Not necessarily — compare watts, not just amps. A U3 needs 102 W at 12V and 91.2 W at 24V. The 24V supply carries fewer amps, which also means less voltage drop in the wiring.
My supply is rated above the full-load current but the actuator still stalls. What else could it be?
Check the wiring and the switch or controller in the chain: thin wire over a long run drops voltage, especially at 12V, and an underrated switch or controller can be the bottleneck even when the supply is fine. Also check for a mechanical jam — a supply cannot fix a binding mechanism.
Do I need a special supply for the Wired Controller Kit?
The kit ships with its own AC/DC adapter (24V version: 24V DC, 2.5 A). That adapter covers small actuators. For larger actuators, keep the kit's control box and handset but feed it from a higher-rated supply matched to your actuator's full-load current.
The Short Version
Match the voltage, size the supply for full-load current with headroom, and check that the rating is continuous DC. Do that and the power side of your project is solved before you pick up a wire.
For the wiring itself, start with our guide to wiring a linear actuator. If you are still choosing the actuator, use our linear actuator selection guide, and browse controllers and remote kits for the control side.